From the Chef's Toolbox

 

Sara Smith

 

Before flying in to headline the Kapalua Wine & Food Festival—held June 26 through 29 at the West Maui resort—Chef Frank Ostini of the Hitching Post restaurant in Buellton, California, not only packed his bags, he packed his entire grill! The well-weathered iron contraption is outfitted with a crank and pulley that raise or lower the cooking surface—allowing for a masterly response to temperature variations. The traveling grill, just like those at his restaurant, is open on all sides; the air infusion helps balance delicate, smoky flavors.

Ostini insists on a wood fire. Charcoal, he feels, burns too much of the natural oils out of foods. He carted over his choice, a coastline red oak native to his home, but was equally impressed with our kiawe (mesquite). Ostini works his grill systematically. Keeping it hottest in the middle, cooler on the edges, he shuffles a full grate of poultries, meats, and various veggies around like a giant, moving puzzle.

“If it’s there, grill it. That’s my motto.” And he does. “I’ve figured out just about everything but eggs.”